Visiting or transplanted New Yorkers, who at times seem to outnumber the native-born population of the Holy City, are often heard bemoaning Jerusalem's many cultural and culinary shortcomings as compared to their former home at the center of the universe. While the pizza undeniably cannot mount much of a defense, at least one thing remains constant: city-sweeping restaurant trends.

In the past several years in Jerusalem, it's been South American food, perhaps because of the steady influx of South American immigrants, or perhaps because nobody was ready for more Asian after the Thai baguette craze.

La Boca does pan-South American upscale, making the most of its trendy Emek Refaim location with a wraparound balcony for dinner-augmented people watching. The restaurant promises traditional South American fare (it calls itself a Latin restaurant) adapted to the Israeli palate and to Judaism's dietary laws, including a less sour version of Peruvian seviche on tortilla, chorizo on a bed of white beans, and Tabasco-infused gazpacho.