The counter restaurant, a quintessentially old-school American dining concept wherein the diners cluster around a countertop built around the open kitchen, may be fading out in America itself, but luckily it's found a place right in the heart of Rechavia, one of Jerusalem's most pleasant neighborhoods.

Comfortably occupying the corner of Aza Road and Ha'ari Street is Sigmund, a glass-walled enclosure where patrons cram shoulder-to-shoulder to dig into tasty, home-cooked Israeli favorites. Don't bring your claustrophobic friends.

There's usually only one cook, so the menu may vary a bit, but Sigmund churns out reliably satisfying quiches, crepes, shakshuka, couscous, salads and other hearty kosher dairy fare. A full selection of both hot and cold drinks is offered as well.

If you're not the counter type, there are a couple small tables inside (but they're rarely empty) and a couple outside, weather permitting, with books and backgammon provided for a leisurely meal.