During Machane Yehuda's ongoing gentrification, Jerusalem chefs and restaurateurs have increasingly grown enamored of restaurants whose menus are informed and inspired by the fresh semi-local produce of the market. This idea is, of course, nothing new, as the many decades-old restaurants dotting the shuk area will attest, but that hasn't stopped bright young restaurateurs with a design budget from gilding the culinary lily. Hopping on this bandwagon with carnivorous verve is Fortuna, essentially a trendified spin on the homey Middle Eastern meat restaurants that have drawn hungry Israelis to the shuk for years.
Chef Eyal Waknin, a veteran of more rarefied establishments, brings a gourmet touch to humble and beloved grill fare like kebab, meorav yerushalmi, lamb ribs and more. All orders come with generous platters of mezze and accompanying bread - one must adhere to tradition, after all. It's a bit pricier than its old-school inspirations, but there is an undeniable appeal in eating kebab within sight of the remnants of the cow it came from.
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