A day spent in the Old City – whether solemnly following Jesus' last steps along the Via Dolorosa from the Lion's Gate to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre or getting lost among the fragrant spices and abundant chintz of the Moslem Quarter market – will invariably leave you in needing to replenish your spent batteries. Nothing provides that much-needed boost like sugar, and there is absolutely nothing in the world more sugary than traditional Arab desserts.
Sugar-junkies are therefore advised to go visit Jaffar's Sweets, a Jerusalem institution on Souq Khan es-Zeit road by Damascus Gate. Jaffar's churns out abundant Arab sweets – usually combinations of shredded filo dough, chopped nuts and pistachio garnish, all drenched in honey. A regional specialty is knafeh, composed of alternating layers of sweetened, melted goat cheese and shredded phyllo with a sweet, nearly-flourescent orange topping.
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The Jerusalem Tourism Map:Print
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