Perched among mountains and hills in the remote outskirts of Jerusalem, the ancient village of Ein Kerem resonates with whispers of the past and music of the present. On all sides, vistas of the encircling hills in all their green abundance; surrounding you at every turn, the winding stone walkways of bygone days, turning into graceful archways hung with ivy and almond blossoms. Poetry is in the air. An utterly different experience from the rest of Jerusalem, Ein Kerem ("Spring of the Vineyard" exudes a sense of undisturbed beauty and bounty; lush branches of wild pomegranates, olives, figs and pears hang overhead. Rising above this tangle of green are rows of slender cypresses, evoking the atmosphere of a Mediterranean village. Interspersed throughout are winding streets and centuries-old homes, beneath towering church steeples that glimmer above the trees. At sunset, the soft light transforms the landscape into a scene from a medieval painting.
In the distance church bells toll, heralding the dusk. Said to be the birthplace of John the Baptist, there are traces of human settlement in Ein Kerem from as long ago as the Bronze Age. The origin of the settlement was probably its natural spring, which flows as strongly now as ever; its soft tinkle a constant melody in the quiet of day and night. Ein Kerem is a place of stillness, where the natural sounds of wind and birds prevail. But the village also has a lively, playful side: Ein Kerem is a popular haunt for artists, and Israelis enjoy visiting to revel in its pastoral beauty. The Eden-Tamir Music Center holds classical and chamber music concerts on most weekends, and there are many cafes and restaurants that offer a relaxed atmosphere away from the crowds of the city proper. The elegant restaurants reflect a prosperous clientele - indeed, despite its popularity with bohemians, this is one of the city's most expensive neighborhoods to live in. These sensual pleasures are an appropriate counterpoint to the spiritual atmosphere of the place.
Ein Kerem is also home to the Hadassah Ein Kerem hospital, which is Jerusalem's largest. The hospital's synagogue, open to the public, holds the famous Marc Chagall stained glass windows.
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