Israel may have a mostly deserved reputation as a secular country, but even the most non-observant of Israeli Jews tend to close up shop and go home on Shabbat. This is most apparent in Jerusalem, where much of the city can be described as desolate once Shabbat descends – which means that finding a meal can be difficult. But Jerusalem does have a secular population, and that population does have its own Holy Day haunts – one needs only to know where to look for them.

A good place to start is Mona, an open-by-night restaurant/bar built into the old headquarters of the Bezalel Academy of Design, a venerable stone building where Shmuel Hanagid Street meets Schatz Street. The menu is diverse, offering traditional salads, steaks, soups and sandwiches, and bringing in dishes from further afield as well (Spanish tapas, various preparations of shrimp) – but the main event is the generous bar.