Brazil: the languorous sway of bossa nova and the punishing thump of baile funk. The bracing kick of cachaça and jittery jolt of guarana. The elaborate acrobatics of capoeira and the persistent rat-a-tat of small arms fire. And the towering platters of meat. Most of all the towering platters of meat. Of all that great Lusophone nation's exports to Israel, nothing beats the meat.

The latest restaurant to embrace the delightful Brazilian concept of bottomless piles of grilled animal flesh is Papagaio, a new Talpiot meat mecca essentially offering high-concept gluttony: fixed-price menus featuring piles of kosher meat trundled out on carts for your gorging convenience. If it chews its cud, has cloven hoofs and once drew breath, Papagaio has dismembered it, skewered it and grilled it, and it is imperative that you eat it until your pants burst.

The basic option is a 145 NIS procession of salad, bread and all-you-can-eat meat, although the menu also offers an 140 NIS all-you-can-eat heap of fish and a somewhat out-of-place 85 NIS all-you-can-eat vegetarian feast. Between bathroom stops to purge, you can broaden your Brazilian experience by watching capoeira troupes elegantly pantomime martial arts. The one thing you can't do, though, is bring home a doggie bag.