Traditionally, hummusiyot are presided over by craggy-faced chickpea patriarchs seemingly frozen in time somewhere south of middle age, sternly churning out secret-family-recipe hummus to similarly weathered regulars. But that doesn't mean the young people can't have a go at it. The dudes behind Hummus Ben Sira are not only young, in fact, but reformed Bezalel artschoolniks who abandoned painting for a similarly demanding muse: the chickpea. As one might expect from a hummusiya run by former art students in the midst of Jerusalem hipster ground zero, the crowd at Ben Sira skews young, and the place is open until the wee hours of the morning (say whatever rapturous words you want about Ta'ami, the fact remains that it is not open at 3 AM). And wonder of wonders, the hummus (and other assorted Middle Eastern treats) isn't bad. You can almost see the crags developing in the proprietors' faces.